A post a chapter - 1 Old for New

I have read through most of Julia Manheims' book Sustainable Jewellery.  This research will fall into my first factor- The Trade- manufacturing process and materials used(other than metals, which will fall into 2. raw materials). Manheim talks about the different aspects of what makes jewellery sustainable.

 I have summarized her basic sub catagories which are explained in detail in each chapter, although some of  which have little relevance to my intention. Its still seems important that i look into what other people see as sustainable jewellery. I will look deeper into the relevant ones, and find other examples outside of the book to back it up further.

1. Old for New - Recycling existing jewellery, altering it, wearing it differently, melting it down and re working it,cutting it up, adding to it or covering it up. This chapter considers ways in which the jewellery can be reinvented even by simply changing the sentiment or idea behind it.

Siblings,necklace, Lin Cheung,2003. Silver,gold.

What does sustainable mean......... & In terms of jewellery.

I have found a few simple definitions of Sustainable that i find most relevant.

• Sustainability the quality of not being harmful to the environment or depleting natural resources and thereby supporting long term ecological balance.
• Sustainable a system that maintains its own viability by using techniques that allow for continued re-use. - able to be maintained or kept going, as an action or process.

The UN took a look into global environment problems in 1983 and came up with this effective definition - That which meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. In relation to jewellery i would put 'needs', because there is no real need for jewellery. In Bruce Metcalfs' paper On The Nature of Jewellery he talks about the five functions of jewellery:

1. Attachment to the body
2. Personal decoration
3. Social identity/status
4. Portable wealth
5. Spiritual

 I see my jewellery predominately fitting under Personal decoration- visually stimulating in terms of colour, contrast and texture. As well as social identity/status- social perceptions- The type or style of jewellery a wearer chooses often speaks for them within a social grouping or stereo type. i think Narrative jewellery would also fall under this 'function', some of my work is narrative. From this I suppose i need to create my own jewellery specific definition of sustainability.......   ah in time, it will come :)

Eg This simple pierced pendant of mine not only serves as decoration but would also say something about the wearer who chooses it, most likely a nature lover. 

Julia Manheim "Sustainable Jewellery"

Now that Ive established the two main factors i need to tackle to make my jewellery more "sustainable", I need to find other jewellers who are doing similar things and see how they go about it. I am finding it quiet difficult to find jewellers working with this concept. Luckily there is Julia Manheims book "Sustainable Jewellery". I am going to start with Manheims book, And look at her different concepts of sustainable jewellery, what it means to other artists and how they go about it. Looking at it from a broader perspective first and then by process of elimination rule out and then bring in what i mean by sustainable jewellery. From there i'll work out how im going to execute my practices.

Jewellery for Sustainability

My intention is to manufacture jewellery using sustainable practices and techniques. I'm not really sure how to go about this just yet. I think a good place to start would be to look into primitive and ancient techniques and tools. By default they made jewellery in a "sustainable" way because they had fewer resources and no mass production abilities. I also want my jewellery to have the narrative message of what being 'green' means to me. I am passionate about sustainability through lifestyle awareness and conscious choices, so as a jeweller I'd like to do the same.

I think Jewellery's environmental footprint is made up of two factors:

1. The trade. By this i mean the process of jewellery manufacture (this has relatively small scale negative impact).
2. The raw material. Traditional jewellery generally is made from metal and stones. These are extracted from our earth through mining,(which has a significant negative environmental impact).

By breaking Jewellery's environmental impact down to two, i can focus my personal strategy for making sustainable jewellery . I can reduce my footprint by

1. Consciously choosing manufacturing processes(possibly primitive ones) and materials that are better for the environment, and
2. Sourcing low-footprint raw materials. Using recycled silver and ethically sourced stones. I am using recycled silver that has been extracted from old x-rays (a process i am keen to find out more about).

I think i may finally understand what it is that Im trying to do, hope so :) and having some fun.