After all.....

I fly pressed the back plate for my shrine, to find that I was particularly drawn to the smoothness of it, and how the simplicity the of domed shape along with the smoothness made it soooooo unbelievably nice to touch and feel...

So after all I mentioned a few days ago in a post about making the back look as beautiful and decorative as the front blah blah blah.... And after asking a few of my peers what they think, I have decided to keep the back plain... and let the beauty be in the simplicity of the shape and a feeling it gives (sort of therapeutic) rather then being in a visual way.

Autumn-hunting season for the leaf jeweller.

Row of coral Trees in Kenton. EC

On Friday we took the doggies for a stroll at the La Lucia park.  Don't know if I've mentioned before but I absolutely love Coral Trees, hi-tech name- Erythrina lysistemon. Unfortunately i didn't have my camera with me, but I picked up loads of fallen leaves from the magnificent tree. I did Look through my photo folders,and  found some reference pics I've taken in the past. 

They flower in winter from about July-October, before the new leaves appear in spring.

I am particularly fond of the way the leaves bunch together.

Although I never seem to be able to catch feeling in my terrible photographs, they really do look amazing from below.

An open pod, a really beautiful form.

 My favorite thing about the tree (other than the long, narrow, bright orange-red-coral (my best colour) flowers, or the curvy pods that look pinched between the seeds, which then split to reveal the little dark orange seeds) is the leaves,of course. Their shape is almost like an upside down heart but with a drawn out tip, they sort of remind me of the Large leafed Rock Fig (one of my other favorites,which has special memories for me). They also have a very pronounced and beautiful vein structure on the underside. The funny thing is i love all leaves mostly for that intricate vein structure, and with all the leafy jewels i make, i have never captured that in a piece.

Perfectly Beautiful.

Autumn time- Some of the leaves i picked up.

 The one problem I have with the Coral Tree is the big black hooked thorns that cover the trunk 

and branches, this means no climbing :( no seeing the view from the trees perspective... 

               

Sharp black hook thorns

What about the side we don't always see?

Looking back at this pendent i made in 3rd yr. The front is pretty, and i get loads of pleasure out of wearing it... but I made the back as an after thought - in a hurry, and this is clear. I don't mind people seeing it when its on me, because they don't ask to see the back. When people do hold it to have a look, I always find myself excusing the back. Eventually I'll remake the back of this one. Jewellery is or should be interactive and i have realized that all sides of any piece should be equally beautiful...

So slowly as my Cow Shrine comes together, and as the front of it becomes more decorative. I've realized that I have made the mistake again and not designed anything for the back of it. It is a pendant so the back lies against the chest, but it is a 3D structure and surely it would be disappointing for a viewer if the back of it was not beautiful. I suppose it could be compared to a building, not only the front of it is designed and then a back -oh whatever?! That seems ridiculous, and should so too in jewellery. How much more special would it become if an equal amount of time and effort goes into all areas.

Shrine in the making

Putting some thought into the back..... Going to try Fly pressing,. The detail? 

  

Replacing Etching.

I want the cow shrine I'm making to be wonderfully decorative, as traditional Shrines generally are. To achieve this, a suitable technique would be etching, It really is a beautiful technique, but unfortunately requires the use of harsh Nitric acid. Which is why I've got to explore other suitable techniques that can possibly match/compare to the intricate detail that comes out when etching.

eg.1. Etched Bangle by Virginia Vivier

eg.2. Etched silver, Sarah Alford

Techniques that I would use to replace etching could be-

 - Piercing- then layering pierced plates (to give a sense of depth).

 - Roll Milling - Giving the metal an indented texture or pattern.

 - Engraving- Perfect technique..... but i need at least a million years practice before i dare. 

 - Chasing- adds the same sort of depth dimension as engraving would, I suppose (yet less detailed).

For this pendant I think I'm going to use piercing and roll milling layered together, maybe also small accents of chasing.

Sacred Cows.

 As I have already mentioned part of my intention is to make narrative jewellery, to create awareness surrounding green issues/topics that i feel strongly about. I am going to start by making a series of 'Shrine' pendants. Addressing(or opposing) the matter i spoke about in my previous post (sad and un-sustainable animal farming methods).

Little plastic hand painted model cows i bought

Cast a few

As I would like to make beautiful jewellery, I am not going to focus on the negative aspects of an issue. Rather the opposite view, by zooming in on the positives. Eg. My first pendant will be "the Sacred cow". I don't know too much about Hinduism, but i know that cows remain protected and are considered to be sacred. The cow is honored at least once a year on Gopastami. On this holiday, cows are washed and decorated in the temples and then given offerings in the hope that her gifts of life will continue. I think this is absolutely beautiful. I wish to capture this in a piece of jewellery, and hope someone will find it beautiful and possibly shed a new light on cows in their mind??Even for just a brief moment....

A picture i tore out a mag ages ago... love the detail, shape and pattern

.

After much designing ,the  final shape.

Narrative Jewellery...

Narrative jewellery has existed alongside ancient civilizations throughout history. It stems from the humans want/urge to communicate, either by sending a message or by telling a story. Contemporary narrative jewellery came about with the pop art movement. Which opened jewellers up to creating jewellery that comments and communicates, with either the wearer, the viewer or both. The notion of narrative jewellery suggests a variety of aspects. Often through symbolism and imagery commenting on political, cultural, spiritual or social matters, and possibly even personal issues, memories, beliefs or opinions.

A Khamsa is a good example of a  image, often made into a jewel, used as a sign of protection throughout history. 

A Penny for your Thoughts. Fred Woell. 1991. Silver , brass, penny. Brooch
This Brooch comments on a politcal status, whilst making a joke of it. 

Iv come across an American metal smith and jeweller Elizabeth Goluch. She creates one of a kind detailed and decorative insects. Her work reflects the intricacy,complexity and order in nature and evokes elements of insect life and the environment. This demonstrates and shares an appreciation for insect life. Often the pieces contain a beautiful little treasure. Goluch works in gold,silver enamel and gemstones.

Farming meat :(

The current human consumption of meat is not only incredibly un-sustainable, but also really sad. Most of South Africas meat is raised under intensive industrial farming operations. Instead of being able to graze on pastures and being able to free to roam, they are fed a high percentage of grain(a completely un-natural diet) and various kinds of cheap proteins and fats...as well as high doses of antibiotics and growth hormones, and are kept indoors in highly concentrated feedlots. And if its not that, then i cant forget to mention a vast majority of world wide deforestation is to make grazing land for all this meat we're eating...

A high percentage of pigs never get to feel the earth under their feet. and around 80% of cattle and chicken are grown in confined feedlots. Sheep in this country have it better off, and are largely farm free range...good for them!

Free range diary farm. Underberg... happy cows :)

Not saying don't eat meat at all but for goodness sake, if you are fortunate enough to be aware of what is going on, at least choose free range and organic over the rest... Consumerism drives the change.
 Don't abuse the luxury of being able to pop into the supermarket and voila...
Respect these animals that give us our food.

Calf, Underberg. How cute is that face...what gentle creatures cows are.

Intention Revised...

My intention is to manufacture ‘Green’ jewellery: By

1. Using environmentally sustainable practices and techniques.

 Which means working Eco-consciously with awareness of the negative impact my practice may have on the                environment. 

       and.....

 2.- Using narrative imagery associated with ‘Green’ and the social issues that surround the topic, to comment on or create an awareness. The imagery will come from subject matter/issues that i consider to be meaningful and/or personally important.

My Title - B.Tech Research Report

I have had a little trouble deciding what title to settle on for my B.Tech Research Report. "Sustainable Jewellery",  "Environmentally conscious Jewellery" or  just "Eco Jewellery", or "Green Jewellery"? Although they all seem pretty much to say the same thing. Which one best describes what it is I am trying to achieve? I thought a little reading would help so I Googled and wikipedia-ed all related words and got blasted with an overload of info. In a nut shell, i have summarized and added my own understanding of what came up.

Environmental conservation influences the protection of natural resources and ecosystems to insure their sustainable management - through changes in public policy or individual practice.
This world wide drive towards environmental sustainability has become known as 'The Green Movement'. And has brought about commonly used contemporary words/or catch phases such as environmentally friendly, Eco friendly, nature friendly and green.  As nature is largely associated with the colour green, the word has been taken on to symbolize all things environmentally conscious.

The appropriate title is definitely- "Green Jewellery".

Chapter 5 - Conceptually Recycled

This chapter looks at the possibilities of using dicarded objects or materials used in a new light or different way, making the object sustainable in thought rather than fact.

memoria, Editions, ear pieces, Lin Cheung,1999.18ct gold, silver.

These earrings by Lin Cheung are a perfect example of this concept as she has used a bunch of butterflys which are generally only used as a practical device. Cheung has used them as the focal point/decorative aspect of the earrings- it has worked so well because what was once a simple functional butterfly,  has been grouped together to become a pretty floral ear piece.

From the chunky bangle I last posted, I decided to cut it up and turned it into 2 separate bracelets. Each one with one central focal point (the leaf), simpler and far more comfortable.  As the bangle there was too much going on, and eye wasn’t drawn to any specific area; it was too heavy, both literally and visually.  Now as a movable bracelet, the weight of the leaf is juxtaposed by the flow of its shape. And then again by the delicateness of the chain which completes it. I have used belcher chain, but now that the piece is finished I think I would like to make a more decorative chain. Possibly something that matches the curly curves of the leafs edges’.  I’ll post the pic of the other bracelet as soon as it’s finished.

I used no acids for the cleaning of this piece.Only scrubbed it with a glass brush. And did the repousse using an old piece of pine rather than the pitch.

Manufacturing without a design

I wanted to make a bangle. I had different thicknesses of wire and fine plate, so thats what i used. I didn't feel like drawing so i just started manufacturing - with no plan and not much of a vision. I'm not sure what to do with it from here. Its uncomfortable and appears to clash with itself. Its really hard to just make something without any designing. I'm going to sketch out some ideas from here and see if i can maybe save some elements of this piece to make into something new and different.

Its good to be reminded how important the drawing and designing process really is.

Chapter 4 - Found Objects

Found Objects: Odds and Ends -Speaks for itself really. Manheim talks about 'magpie syndrome' this process comes about by collecting random everyday objects (eg stamps, ornaments,nuts and bolts, buttons etc) possibly with strong visual appeal, and then transforming them into wearable jewellery.

Gold Necklace, Emma Palmer, 2008. Antique buttons, crochet thread.

If i were to incorporate found objects into a piece of jewellery i would use seed pods or seeds i think.

Gardening Tools

Then there's growing a few of your own organic veggies. The fun part. Eating less meat is also a small positive that can help (livestock farming is one of the greatest contributing factors to deforestation). Meat-Free Mondays is a campaign to create awareness.... easy start, dedicate at least one day a week to no meat (i intend on making a Meat-Free Monday piece of jewellery).  I have made a few 'Garden Tool' pieces which represent "green" to me. I would like to make more, and to have a recycling range as well as an animal awareness range. I would also like to start working with other imagery that is associated with being 'green' maybe also positive and negative indicators of 'sustainability'. 

My Happy Gardening range. Dig It. Earrings. 925

Happy Gardening range. Shower with love. pendant. 925

Choices

 Over and above the fact that i aim to manufacture my jewellery in a sustainable way, i also want to portray and promote environmental sustainability, and simple ways in which it can be achieved. Sometimes i cant help but feel my efforts (in my jewellery practice) are so insignificant and that the negative effects of the jewellery industry are minuscule compared to some of the massive industries that are really destroying (e.g. deforestation due to animal farming and paper manufacture and the plastic manufacturing corporations). By chatting to people i am reminded that every small step counts(as cliche as that may sound), its how anything starts.

What if these guys where separating their rubbish for recycling? 

How angry does this make you? Frightening! 

With the huge hype around recycling, everyone knows we should all be doing it but how many people really are? In our home we make some simple conscious choices that help. Separating rubbish is the perfect start, a little more effort in the beginning until it becomes second nature. Glass, paper and plastics, tin, then organic waste to the worm farm - the rubbish we put out on the street to be collected by the municipality and transported to landfill sites is a very minimal, if everyone was doing this simple task? How can i make narrative jewellery to depict this. Pieces that the wearer or viewer can engage with in a mindful manner.

Why?

 I had a convo with someone the other day about my jewellery, he asked me why I'm interested on focusing on sustainability, with every answer I gave him, he came back with the rather irritating repeated question but why? From this i realized that i need to state (the obvious to me) the reason that this is important to me is simple, i really love animals and nature and feel strongly that it is our duty as fellow earth dwellers to respect them and our environment.

Morning cuddles with my 5 babies :)

Chapter3 - Ephemeral Jewellery

'Ephemeral Jewellery- Something and nothing - This requires little or no physical materials, by using marks on the skin, light,dust or images projected onto the body'.

Lace Collar,Millie Cullivan,2004.Talc

This chapter boils down to Manheim and other artists pushing boundaries on what defines jewellery as jewellery and peoples perceptions of it. Although clever, not really suited to my personal definition of sustainable jewellery.

Find from an Urban Jewellery Expedition,Claire Jeffs,2007. Gold spiral-twist earring.

i hEaRt MaRKet 3.03.12

March...hmmm our 10th stand at the market. Although this month was quite a quiet one, it was still a fruitful one. A photographer was there and seemed to think our jewellery would be suited to a bikini photo shoot they're doing on a beautiful exotic beach up in Mozambique. We were sent a mail with all details and portfolio links, they're some really talented and creative people and the models are hot hot hot. Each shoot is going to have its own theme, it sounds fantastic, and i am sooo thrilled by the offer. They want mainly bracelets and neckpieces,the bolder and chunkier the better...i may try whip out a new piece or 2 to send extra. They leave next week, for a week.When they're done we'll have access to the photos.win win all round! Ill then publish the links. So as soon as they come in will post them up :)

My earring display at the market

Chapter 2 - Waste Not, Want Not.

Sprungli Collar, Verena Sieber-fuchs, 2000. Sprungli chocolate wrappers, Inox crocheted.

1. 2. *Waste Not, Want Not - looks into how jewellery can be made from materials that would usually be thrown away. Generally re- shaping or re-inventing things from materials that would usually be discarded without second thought.  The concept stems from a time during The Second World War when times were tough and innovative ways to re-use old materials became essential.eg. coats made from old blankets. The generation to follow grew up understanding 'waste not, want not'. Then came a time of affluence, and this concept was thrown out the window. Manufactured goods were favored over home-made /hand-made as they were seen as part of a more impoverished lifestyle. This has contributed  to where we currently find ourselves, the supermarket and fast-food culture, the age of plastic.Mountains of rubbish. 

1. People are becoming increasingly aware of the 'unsustainability' of this. Although sustainable  jewellery is in no going to save the world, it can only help by spreading awareness. 

1. I find, most jewellery made with this concept in mind, to be either generally quiet ugly or impractical/unwearable. This crocheted chocolate wrapper neck piece is a great example as it is both beautiful and wearable, which is an important requirement for me to fulfill through my jewellery if i am to work with this concept. I have some ideas and would like to make 1 or 2 pieces.

Order done :)

So i made this simple(quiet minimal) pendant towards the end of last yr to add to my I Heart Market stock, because i was short of necklaces. Around the same time i was contacted by a women who buys and sells a variety of jewellery. A week before the market she took most of my stock to display at an open day, the necklace amongst other pieces sold. I quickly made another to fill my once again empty gap. Last week she contacted me for more stock at another open day, the necklace sold again, and 4 more were ordered :) .

For me the interesting thing is that our customers are completely different, although my market at I Heart is quiet a broad range of people all ages. Her market is more upmarket. And i suppose people generally don't go to a flea market with too much cash on them, although i am sometimes surprised.

Generally when I remake a piece I alter it in some slight way to make it better, this one has stayed mostly the same because that's what people want i guess. I'm not a huge fan of these,  but apparently some people are, so great!